Ranthambhore is pure magic. The place is full of the romance of the wilds and the intrigue of history – 10th-century ruins smothered by roots, herons on lakes, a million myths about Raja Hamir and the glory days of the ‘impregnable’ fort.
The fort’s fall, along with that of Chittaur, is what is credited with breaking the spirit of the Rajputs and the establishing of the Mughal Empire. Locals still visit a Ganesh temple here, as did their ancestors before them. And like them, they must walk through tiger forest to do so.